How To Make A Stone Setting
Who doesn't love including gorgeous stones in their jewelry designs? Nothing enhances a piece more than a colorful fabulous gem. The kickoff technique that comes to mind when thinking of stone setting is, of form, the traditional bezel. Only there are a lot more means to set up stones—and experimenting with those alternative techniques can be a joy!
Higher up: Colorful gemstones. Photograph: J-Palys; Getty Images.
Prong Settings
I'll admit that I love prong settings. Using prongs instead of a bezel can ofttimes let more than of the stone evidence, making information technology truly the centerpiece of your design. One of my favorite prong-ready designs is Roger Halas's Dawn of the Trilobite Pendant from the November 2022 issue of Lapidary Journal Jewelry Creative person. Roger combines prong and bezel settings in this pattern. I love the setting, and I dear the crawly fossil—although the prong technique would patently work for many other stones.
Wire working too lends itself very well to creating prongs. The Reversible Cabochon Prong Setting by Margie Farrin O'Conner was featured in the Fall 2007 issue of Stride Past Step Wire Jewelry. Not simply does the wire make great prongs (by heating and balling the ends of the wire), simply the open up wirework on the back shows of the other side of the rock perfectly.
Flush Setting
Helen Driggs' Secret Sapphire and Sterling Ring (from Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist, February 2022) is a masterpiece! The stones are set straight into the sterling silverish instead of on superlative of the metal. It's a very streamlined and elegant expect, perfect for a ring.
Tube Settings
A different take on traditional bezels is tube setting. The stone is set into an accordingly sized and shaped tube. Yous can get pre-made tubes or create your own. An awesome example of tube setting is Eva Sherman's Three Rock Ring from the April 2022 issue of Lapidary Periodical Jewelry Creative person. The 3 tubes and three stones make a fantastic open blueprint.
Partial Stone Setting
If you have an incredible rock and you want to prove off every possible side and angle, endeavor a partial setting. A fractional setting doesn't surroundings the whole stone; it just touches parts of the stone while nevertheless holding it deeply. Cheque out Andy Lucas's Partial Settings Pendant which was shown in Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist, January/February 2022. A jewel setting doesn't get more beautiful that this!
Stone-on-Stone Setting
Practise you lot have two contrasting or complementary stones? Want to put them together? Well, you could always put one stone on top of the other! Stone-on-stone settings await tremendously complicated. Everyone will wonder how you did it. (Tell them it's magic.) But these settings can be deceptively uncomplicated to exercise. For an fantabulous example, see James Dunakin'south Stone on Stone Ring (from Lapidary Journal Jewelry Creative person, December 2022). How cool is that?
Stone Setting: Inlay
One of the most beautiful ways to fix your stones is to use an inlay technique. Basically, you fit your stones (cut to the correct shapes) into your metallic like a jigsaw puzzle. It's stunning!
Jeff Fulkerson is the master of this technique every bit you tin see in both his Native-American Hammer Set Pendant (from Lapidary Periodical Jewelry Artist, Baronial 2022) and Inlaid Cuff (February 2010). I must acknowledge that, in all of the jewelry-making projection we've featured over the years, these are two of my very favorites.
Wire Wrapping Stones
I of the most pop means to set stones (especially if yous're non into metalwork) is wire wrapping. Wire wrapped jewelry designs can have a very elegant, almost ethereal await. And the basic techniques can be fairly simple to master. You can and then build on the nuts to create some absolutely stunning designs. I dearest to play with different wire wrapping techniques. They're fun! One of my favorite examples is Dale Armstrong'south Wire Wrapped Malachite Pendant, featured in the July 2009 consequence of Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist. Non only does information technology demonstrate a groovy wire-wrapping blueprint, it likewise uses my all-time favorite stone, malachite. I adore the play of the deep green confronting the Argentium silver. Crawly!
Wire Bezels
Some other less structured fashion to apply wire for setting stones is to create your ain wire bezels. You tin can really let your imagination soar! Your freeform wire bezels can exist as unproblematic or complex as you desire. And if you make a error, you tin can easily tell everybody that y'all meant to do it that manner. Score! For inspiration, check out Lisa Niven Kelly'southward Entangled Wire Bezel from Pace Past Step Wire Jewelry, Summer Preview 2007. Then accept the design from there and make it your own.
Metal Clay Rock Settings
Have yous e'er tried using metal clay for your jewelry creations? If not, give information technology a effort! It'due south fun and versatile . . . and just so cool! In that location are actually several means to gear up stones in metal dirt. Arlene Mornick's Linked Metal Clay Bracelet with Stones (Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist, Nov 2022) demonstrates half-dozen (count 'em, six) such techniques. And there's no torch required—although you practise, of class, demand a kiln to fire the metallic clay. But the terminate upshot is amazing!
Cap Mounting
Concluding simply certainly not least, hither is a fantastic fashion to set odd stones, especially fabulous fossils. Exercise you take a fossilized tooth? A dinosaur claw? Or just something tooth-shaped that you want to show off to its best advantage? Well, consider a cap mounting. It'south exactly what the name says it is—a cap that fits over one terminate of the rock. Y'all terminate up with a funky, modern design—just similar Roger Halas did with his Cap Mounted Pendant with Solder Inlay from Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist, May/June 2022. It's wonderful!
Showtime Setting Gemstones!
Sure, a lot of these techniques may look a fleck complicated. And they can be somewhat intimidating if you're new to gem setting. But (as my mother would have said) don't fret! Get started setting stones! Also check out ane of my favorite books, Gemstone Settings: The Jewelry Maker'southward Guide to Styles & Techniques (affiliate link). Y'all tin can't become wrong!
And so get ready. Go set. Gear up.
– Karla
Former Managing Editor, Lapidary Journal Jewelry Creative person
Updated February 2022. Originally published January 2022.
Primary stone setting with these expert resources!
How To Make A Stone Setting,
Source: https://www.interweave.com/article/jewelry/10-types-stone-setting-jewelry-designs/
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